Why Biotherm is a Men’s Brand in China —And What it Means for the Future of Men’s Skincare in Asia

A Quick History Lesson on Biotherm

Founded in France in 1952 and having entered China in 2003, Biotherm is a premium skincare brand under the L’Oréal Group. The company is most recognized for its dedication to biotechnology, sustainability, and natural water-based ingredients like thermal plankton — an approach known as “Blue Beauty”. Over the decades, Biotherm has positioned itself as a functional, science-forward brand rooted in hydration and skin resilience, with minimalistic packaging and a clinical tone that emphasizes scientific skincare and results over beauty trends.

In Western markets like France and the United States, the brand is predominantly associated with women’s skincare, especially in active, wellness-minded demographics.

In China, however, the picture is entirely different. Biotherm has garnered an audience that is, by Sapling Insight’s estimates, over 95% male — an anomaly in the skincare category, especially for a heritage brand.

What explains this gendered divide? How did a beauty brand primarily embraced by women in the West come to be known as a “men’s brand” in China? And more importantly, what are the implications of this unique positioning for Biotherm’s long-term strategy in Asia?

Setting the Stage: The Evolution of Men’s Skincare in China

For many years, skincare in China was considered strictly a women’s category. Male grooming was minimal, limited to shaving products or basic facial cleansers. However, in the past decade, China has witnessed a cultural and behavioral shift among Gen Z and Millennial men, driven by changing gender norms, rising disposable income, and the influence of media and pop culture.

Today, Chinese men are increasingly investing in skin health as part of self-care and personal branding. There’s a growing acceptance — as well as social expectation — for men to maintain clean, youthful, and well-groomed appearances, especially in white collar industries and higher-tiered cities. Skincare is no longer perceived as vanity, but as part of modern masculinity.

This shift has created explosive market opportunities. China’s male skincare market more than tripled in size since 2017 — from 0.74 billion to 2.31 billion USD in 2023, a 21% growth YoY. This trend shows no signs of stopping, and the market expected to reach over 2.8 billion USD in 2025.

Biotherm’s Unfair Advantage: A Perfect Market Fit

During the male skincare boom, Biotherm was just one of many Western skincare players in the Chinese market — however, the brand had two unique advantages which were pivotal to its eventual success.

The first advantage is the Biotherm’s early investment in Biotherm Homme — the first prestige men’s skincare range in China. This male-specific line, first launched in 1985, was built from the ground up specifically for male skin and lifestyle.

When the trend of male skincare picked up in China during the late 2010s, there was (and for many still is) lingering stigma surrounding the usage of non-cleanser or high-end products by men. Chinese men who were new to skincare wanted a product that they could use without feeling judged or emasculated. However, the biggest players at the time were investing most of their resources into women’s’ categories, and understandably so — its growth completely eclipsed the men’s category and required undivided attention to remain competitive. This resulted in a rare, unfulfilled gap between supply and demand in the male skincare segment.

During this gap, Biotherm Homme was one of the only well-established, male-specific options available, quickly turning it into the undisputed market leader. It’s wide range of product offerings with diversified functionalities also allowed it to reach all niches of market. Before other brands could react, Biotherm’s early-mover advantage had already translated into deep-rooted trust and loyalty among male consumers, particularly among the urban middle and upper-middle classes.

Biotherm’s second advantage came from its inherent brand identity. Biotherm’s messaging emphasized skin strength, vitality, and urban resilience — aligning with modern Chinese ideals of masculinity that merge traditional values with a health-conscious, image-aware mindset.

Likewise, Biotherm’s blue, aquatic visual thematic looked clean and “masculine,” and its products emphasized performance and health rather than vanity. In effect, it became a socially acceptable, even aspirational, brand for men to use without feeling like they were compromising traditional masculinity.

The Power of Gifting: ‘My First Skincare’ for Husbands and Boyfriends

Another critical factor in Biotherm’s success is the female-driven nature of early product discovery. In China’s gifting-heavy culture, many men were introduced to skincare through products given by girlfriends, wives, or family members. These weren’t seen as luxury indulgences, but rather gestures of care, hygiene, and social expectation.

Data gathering by Sapling Insight’s consumer seed groups show 81% of women aged 18-28 play an active role in influencing skincare purchasing decisions of their current and/or previous partners. Findings also indicate that men in relationships are more likely to upgrade their routines — incorporating more products and steps, as well as upgrading to higher-end products. However, more research is necessary to quantify the exact extent of such upgrades.

The dynamic of gifting and recommendation has created a gateway into the category for men who might not actively shop for skincare on their own but are happy to receive and use it. On platforms like Tmall and JD.com, product reviews for Biotherm Homme often mention female partners who introduced or gifted the brand to male users.

Biotherm’s clean design, scientific positioning, and male-specific offerings make it a safe bet as a gift choice for men new to premium skincare. Once introduced, many men repurchased for themselves. Over time, Biotherm Homme became synonymous with “my first serious skincare product” in the eyes of many Chinese consumers.

This highlights an important insight for brand strategy in China: user and buyer are very often not the same person. In China, the gifting dynamic means brands must speak to both. This is especially true in male skincare, where female partners still play a large role in shaping purchase decisions.

Can’t ‘Have Your Cake and Eat it Too’: The Price Biotherm Paid for Dominance in the Male Category

Biotherm’s massive popularity in the men’s skincare segment had created an unintended consequence: it was increasingly being perceived as a brand “for men only.” While this positioning has cemented its dominance in a rising category, it came at the cost of brand relevance among Chinese women.

When Biotherm realized they had tapped into a rich vein of new consumers via Biotherm Homme, they immediately began investing heavily in targeted marketing — changing front-page images on e-commerce from women to men, partnering with more male celebrities and KOCs, and headlining its male SKUs. This quickly resulted in a significant increase in organic, male-led discussions on social media. Social listening data shows that by 2023, more than 90% of Biotherm-related posts on Rednote (小红书) were authored by male users, despite the platform being female-dominant.

This shift did not go unnoticed by women, who began to feel alienated from the brand’s core narrative. Simultaneous to this decline, the women’s skincare space in China grew increasingly competitive, saturated with both established global players and agile local upstarts, making it increasingly difficult for Biotherm to maintain visibility and communicate its identity as a forerunner in the women’s category. 

Biotherm did attempt to revive its women’s line by partnering with celebrities like 邓紫棋 (G.E.M.) in to reignite interest and modernize its image among younger consumers. However, by then, the brand’s presence in the female category had faded too far, and the campaign struggled to reverse years of disengagement. With fewer new launches tailored for women and little localized storytelling to maintain emotional relevance, both new and legacy female users gradually moved on to brands that better reflected their evolving needs and identities.

This finally culminated in the removal nearly all Biotherm’s women’s SKUs from major Chinese e-commerce platforms and kiosks in 2024, retaining only the Cera Repair Barrier Cream and Life Plankton Essence In-Mask.

With increasing competition from emerging male-specialized local brands like 左颜右色(MANCODES) and 海洋之尊 (Z-SEA), Biotherm can no longer afford to play both sides as it had unsuccessfully done so before — it now fully embraces its identity as a men’s brand in China.

From a strategic lens, this raises a larger issue about brand elasticity and segmentation. Could Biotherm have captured male market share without forfeiting its female base? One potential solution would have been to split the brand’s presence into two distinct digital entities early on — one focused on Biotherm Homme, the other on Biotherm’s core women’s line. Separate flagship stores, social media channels, and influencer programs could have allowed each side of the business to speak authentically to its respective audience, without diluting or confusing the overall brand.

The Future of Men’s Skincare in China

As Biotherm looks ahead, the male skincare market it helped legitimize is quickly evolving — and becoming more competitive. Chinese men are no longer just adopting skincare as a borrowed behavior; they are shaping it. With rising expectations around personalization, ingredient transparency, and digital integration, today’s male consumers are discerning, informed, and brand-fluid.

Local players are stepping up to meet these demands with greater agility. Brands like 左颜右色 and 海洋至尊 are not only competing on price but are also innovating quickly with formats like skincare sticks, oil-control toners, and on-the-go masks — tailored to specific male concerns like pollution, post-gym recovery, or oily T-zones. These offerings are often released in fast cycles, driven by social listening and user feedback.

Moreover, these domestic brands are fluent in China’s digital ecosystems. They launch on Douyin, co-create with influencers, and deploy conversion-optimized livestreaming strategies. Their marketing language speaks to lifestyle, confidence, and tech-forward masculinity — often leaving legacy brands looking static by comparison. 

For Biotherm to maintain its leadership, it will need to evolve beyond its first-mover advantage. This means investing in co-creation, local R&D, and storytelling to meet rising expectations. The future of men’s skincare in China is no longer about proving the category, but how to win the next generation of users.